Travel On A Sternwheeler

A Trip on the Kootenay Lake

The Arrow Lakes News, Nakusp BC - June 1927

A man calls from the Nelson wharf, "It's 4:30 exactly captain," "Toot," goes the cast-off signal. The ropes are slackened and let go, the remaining passengers scamper on board and the gangplank is hauled in. "Clang-Clang," and the paddlewheel starts moving and the boat backs out. Then clang-clang again and the boat moves forward on its way.

The ferryboat crosses a few hundred feet in front of the steamer, laden with cars and passengers.

Our meditations are interrupted by the purser, who demands a ticket.

As we glance back towards the beautiful city of Nelson, we note the flag on the bluff, at half-mast, in tribute of a late citizen of the town.

All the lake front buildings are familiar to the writer who has spent years in Nelson. We note with pleasurable anticipation the pile-driver placing piles for the new veneer works. As we pass Connought Park we search for picnickers but find none. The weather has been too cold for comfort.

The shipyard is almost deserted too, only two men in view. There is no steamer being repaired at present. A tug is tied up beside two barges, several men and boys are fishing from the side.

As we pass the park and camping grounds beyond rowboats, mostly carrying boys are rowed out to get waves from the Kuskanook. They get a lot of fun out of this and row our daily for the thrill.

We have just passed an object of wonder to those, when seen for the first time. Three piles driven in the sandbar with slats on three sides painted white. At the top is a lantern, which burns night and day but can only be seen at night. This serves as a guide for night travel.

The Procter train passes along the lakeshore. A long string of coke, ore, cattle, boxcars, a crane car and a caboose. Wonder how many hoboes on board!

A white launch passes at full speed, carrying a party of picnickers returning to Nelson.

An invitation to visit the pilothouse is thankfully accepted. This is the largest we have visited of all the boats of the Inland Lake service. In fact, we are very favorably impressed with the Kuskanook. The boat seemed to be designed for comfort. The staterooms and lounges are all more spacious than any of the other boats. Moreover this is the fastest boat of the service.

From this point of vantage we are able to get a better view of the lake and the shoreline.

The lake level is well up and as a result many pieces of driftwood are about.

The pilot announces that the fist stop will be at Harrop. Usually there are many other stops on the way.

This time of year, the trees and fields are green and fresh looking. The eye everywhere meets pleasant scenes: comfortable farmhouses snuggled away in the trees.

Another buoy and line fisherman are left to starboard.

Presently a launch is passed towing a boom of logs.

Another ferry crosses just behind us as we pull in at Harrop landing.

The boat hardly stops at this landing as there are no passengers. A few cans of cream are rushed off and the signal, three bells, is given to go ahead. Harrop presents quite a prosperous looking farming settlement.

The next stop is Sunshine Bay. Nobody in view. One lone passenger and one lone empty milk can is dropped off.

Then we arrive at Fraser Landing.

The entrance to the main lake is seen from here and soon the pilot blows the whistle for Procter. Two barge loads of freight cars are tied up here, with their escorts, the tugs. A string of cars are on the siding.

We pass the Balfour sanatorium on the left. This place has been idle since the end of the war. It was run as a hotel previous to the war.

Procter is quite a thriving village. They have a beer parlor, don't you know? The depot has been newly painted. There is no resident agent here.

After a short wait the steamer Nasookin, from Kootenay Landing, rounds the corner. It pulls up to the other side of the wharf and discharges its freight and passengers on board our ship, who are bound for Kaslo. The Nasookin gives a lordly ‘toot' and continues its way to Nelson. We cast off our lines and continue on our way. The sight of these two palatial steamers, side by side is one to be remembered for a long time.

We enter the main lake and turn to the left. We are now in the salmon fishing waters. Many previous exciting fishing trips come to our memory. We long to join the fleet of rowboats now enjoying the pleasure.

Our first stop is at Queen's Bay. A lovely name. The bay is certainly a pretty place and well deserves the name.

Then we cross the lake to Kootenay Bay. Here some furniture is unloaded. We are surprised to see a Chevrolet Sedan on the roadside and are told that although there is but a few miles of road there the car has won a place, even here.

Deanshaven is a place of considerable interest. The abandoned steamer, Kokanee, is tied up here and serves as a landing place. Four or five different craft lay about this old boat. One launch was partly submerged. To know the history of this steamer would be interesting. The present owner, has turned it into a hotel.

Ainsworth presents several novel features. The landing, itself is built on a rock and is of solid cement. The town itself is on a side-hill. Several stores are in view and the town appears to be thriving. Ore bins, too, are in evidence, showing what has made the town.

Princess Creek at 8:25. Only one man on the wharf. A few irons are thrown off here. The tunnel of this mine, easily seen from the boat is about 10 feet square and is in about 800 feet. This is going to be a big mine some day. The proposed tunnel will be 3600 feet.

Riondel is not easily seen from the boat. The big mill buildings are in view and occupy the ground space adjourning the wharf. Electric lights make the wharf and surroundings as light as day. The town is on a level further back and has a population of about 200.

Kaslo is discernable from here and we start on our way towards it. Kaslo is a beauty spot if ever there was one. A natural bay affords ample shelter for the wharf and the many boathouses. Kaslo is noted for its fishing and for its cherry trees. Cherry Avenue, is a beautiful spot when the trees are in bloom. The town has a population of about 600, cement sidewalks, electric lights, park, golf links, etc.

A trip from Nelson to Kaslo is one that is full of enjoyment and one that one wishes to take every year.

Narrated by Ken Lamb